Extracts of Cherry and Sweet Cherry Fruit as Active Ingredients of Body Wash Formulations
As a response to the growing demand of consumers for active, natural ingredients of cosmetic preparations, manufacturers are looking for new raw materials, rich in compounds with high antioxidative activity. In this research an attempt were made to evaluate the content of phenolic compounds, L-ascorbic acid and the antioxidant potential (DPPH•, ABTS•+ method) of aqueous and aqueous-glycerine extracts from cherry (Prunus avium L), and sweet cherry (Prunus cerasus L.). The next stage of this work was the application of analysed extracts to cleaning preparations. The best antioxidant properties were demonstrated for the aqueous-glycerine extract of sweet cherry fruit, which also was exhibit the highest phenol and L-ascorbic acid content. After application of analysed extract aqueous-glycerine extract of sweet cherry fruit to the gel, it was showed high foam stability. The model formulations enriched with the aqueous extracts of cherries and sweet cherries had a higher foaming ability, compared to the formulations containing the aqueous-glycerine extracts. The addition of both cherry and sweet cherry fruit extracts to the formulations resulted in a decrease in viscosity, in comparison with the baseline sample. The highest decline in viscosity (15% in relation to the baseline sample) was noted for the aqueous extract of sweet cherry fruit. None of model formulations, containing analysed extracts, did not induce skin lesions in the epidermal patch tests. The results indicate that the extracts can be used as a valuable cosmetic raw material, which have strong antioxidant ability and at the same time did not adversely affecting the usable properties of the washing gel.
Ayuso MC, Rodríguez AB (2010). Sweet cherry phytochemicals: Identification and characterization by HPLC-DAD/ESI-MS in six sweet cherry cultivars grown in Valle del Jerte (Spain). Journal of Food Composition and Analysis 53(6):533-539.
Brand-Williamis W, Cuvelier M, Berset C (1995). Use of a free radical method to evaluate antioxidant activity. Food Science Technology 28:25-30.
Brud W, Glinka R (2001). Technologia kosmetyków [Technology of cosmetics]. Wydawnictwo MA, Warszawa.
Bujak T, Wasilewski T, Niziol-Lukaszewska Z (2015). Role of macromolecules in the safety of use of body wash cosmetics. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces 135:497-503.
Butler H (2000). Poucher’s perfumes, cosmetics and soaps. 10th Edition, Kluwer Academic Publishers.
Chanchal D, Swarnlata S (2008). Novel approaches in herbal cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 7:89-95.
Chaovanalikit A, Wrolstad RE (2004). Anthocyanin and polyphenolic composition of fresh and processed cherries and their antioxidant properties. Journal of Food Science 69(1):67-72.
Dai J, Mumper RJ (2010). Plant phenolics: extraction, analysis and their antioxidant and anticancer properties. Molecules 15(10):7313-52.
Draelos ZD, Dover JS (2011). Kosmeceutyki [Cosmeceutics]. Elsevier Urban & Partner, Wroc?aw.
Dragovic-Uzelac V, Levaj B, Bursac D, Pedisic S, Radojcic I, Bisko A (2007). Total phenolics and antioxidant capacity assays of selected fruits. Agriculturae Conspectus Scientificus 72(4):279-284.
Dziadek E, Kukielka E, Kopec A (2018). Antioxidant activity of sweet cherry (Prunus avium) fruits, petioles and leaves infusions and extracts. Chemistry Environment Biotechnology 3:217-222.
Elser P, Maibach H (2000). Cosmeceuticals and active cosmetics. Taylor & Francis Group, New York.
Evans MD, Dizdaroglu M, Cooke S (2004). Oxidative DNA damage and disease: induction, repair and significance. Mutant Research 567(1):1-61.
Ferretti G, Bacchetti T, Belleggia A, Neri D (2010). Cherry antioxidants: from farm to table. Molecules 15:6993-7005.
Fuzzari M, Fukumoto L, Mazza G, Livrea MA, Tesoriere L, Di Marco L (2008). In vitro bioavailability of phenolic compounds from five cultivars of frozen sweet cherries (Prunus avium L.). Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 56:3561-3568.
Gastol M, Krosniak M, Derwisz M, Dobrowolska-Iwanek J (2013). Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas L.) juice as a potential source of biological compounds. Journal of Medicinal Food 16(8):728-73.
Gonçalves B, Ladbo AK, Knudsen D, Silva AP, Mountinho-Pereira J, Rosa E, Meyer AS (2004). Effect of ripeness and postharvest storage on the phenolic profiles of cherries (Prunus avium L.). Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 52(3):523-530.
Gonzáles-Gómez D, Lozano M, Fernández-León MF, Bernalte MJ, Ayuso MC, Rodríguez AB (2010). Sweet cherry phytochemicals: Identification and characterization by HPLC-DAD/ESI-MS in six sweet cherry cultivars grown in Valle del Jerte (Spain). Journal of Food Composition and Analysis 53(6):533-539.
Jablonska-Trypuc J, Czerpak R (2008). Surowce kosmetyczne i ich skladniki [Cosmetics raw materials and their ingredients]. Wydawnictwo MedPharm, Wroclaw.
Jackson CT, Paye M, Maibach H (2014). Handbook of cosmetic science and technology. Boca Raton, London.
Katsube T, Tabata H, Ohta Y, Yamasaki Y, Anuurad E, Shiwaku K, Yamane Y (2004). Screening for antioxidant activity in edible plant products: Comparison of low-density lipoprotein oxidation assay, DPPH radical scavenging assay and Folin-Ciocalteu assay. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 52(8):2391-2396.
Kelley D, Adkins Y, Laguero K (2018). A review of the health benefits of cherries. Nutrients 10(3):368-378.
Kevers C, Falkowki M, Tabart J, Defraigne JO, Dommes J, Pincemail J (2007). Evolution of antioxidant capacity during storage of selected fruits and vegetables. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 55(21):8596-8603.
Kim BJ, Kim JH, Heo MY (2007). Biological screening of 100 plant extracts for cosmetic use (III). Anti-oxidative activity and free radical scavenging activity. International Journal of Cosmetics Science 19:299-307.
Kirakosyan A, Seymour EM, Urcuyo DE, Kaufman PB, Bolling SF (2009). Chemical profile and antioxidant capacities of tart cherry products. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 115:20-25.
Kirakosyan A, Seymour EM, Urcuyo Llanes DE, Kaufman PB, Bolling SF (2009). Chemical profile and antioxidant capacities of tart cherry products. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 115:20-25.
Lee J, Koo N, Min DB (2004). Reactive oxygen species, aging and antioxidative nutraceuticals. Comprehensive Review Food Science Food Safety 3:21-33.
Lima VL, De Almeida ME, Da Silva I, Lima DE (2002). Total phenolics and carotenoids in Surinam cherry. Scientia Agriculturae 59(3):447-450.
Lupo MP (2001). Antioxidants and vitamins in cosmetics. Clinical Dermatology 19(4):467-473.
Mambro VM, Fonseca MJ (2005). Assays of physical stability and antioxidant activity of a topical formulation added with different plant extracts. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis 37:287-295.
Martini S, Conte A, Tagliazucchi D (2017). Phenolic compounds profile and antioxidant properties of six sweet cherry (Prunus avium) cultivars. Food Research International 97:15-26.
Mielichacova S, Timoracka M, Bystricka J, Vollmannova A, Cery J (2010). Relation of total antiradical activity and total polyphenol content of sweet cherries (Prunus avium L.) and tart cherries (Prunus cerasus L.). Acta Agricultura Slovenica 95:21-28.
Miliauskas G, Venskutonis PR, Van Beek TA (2004). Screening of radical scavenging activity of some medicinal and aromatic plant extracts. Food Chemistry 85:231-237.
Niziol-Lukaszewska Z, Osika P, Wasilewski T, Bujak T (2017). Hydrophilic dogwood extracts as materials reducing the skin irritation potential of body wash cosmetics. Molecules 22:320-334.
Piccolella S, Fiorentino A, Pacifico S, D’Abrosca B, Uzzo P, Monaco P (2008). Antioxidant properties of sour cherries (Prunus cerasus L.): role of colorless phytochemicals from the methanolic extract of ripe fruits. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 56(6):1928-1935.
Prvulovic D, Popovic M, Malencic D, Ognjanov V (2011). Phenolic compounds in sweet cherry petioles and their antioxidant properties. Research Journal of Agricultural Science 43(2):512-518.
Re R, Pellegrini N, Protegente, A, Pannala A, Yang M, Rice-Evans C (1999). Antioxidant activity applying and improved ABTS radical cation decolorization assay. Free Radical Biology Medical 26:1231-1237.
Robards K, Prenzler PD, Tucker G, Prasan P, Glover W (1999). Phenolic compounds and their role in oxidative processes in fruit. Food Chemistry 66:401-436.
Saraf S, Kaur C (2010). Phytoconstituents as photoprotective novel cosmetic formulations. Pharmacognosy Review 4(7):1-11.
Serrano M, Guillén F, Martínez-Romero D, Castillo S, Valero D (2005). Chemical constituents and antioxidant activity of sweet cherry at different ripening stages. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 53(7):2741-50.
Sultana B, Anwar F, Ashraf M (2009). Effect of extraction solvent/technique on the antioxidant activity of selected medicinal plant extracts. Molecules 14:2167-2180.
Usenik V, Fabcic J, Stampar F (2008). Sugars, organic acids, phenolic composition and antioxidant activity of sweet cherry (Prunus avium L.). Food Chemistry 107:185-192.
Vangdal E, Slimestad R (2006). Methods to determine antioxidative capacity in fruit. Journal of Fruit and Ornamental Plant Research 144:123-131.
Zhao Y, Tan DX, Lei Q, Chen H, Wang L, Li QT, Gao Y, Kong J (2013). Melatonin and its potential biological functions in the fruits of sweet cherry. Journal of Pineal Research 55(1):79-88.
Zillich OV, Schweiggert-Weisz U, Eisner P, Kerscher M (2001). Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 37:455-464.
Open Access Journal:
The journal allows the author(s) to retain publishing rights without restriction. Users are allowed to read, download, copy, distribute, print, search, or link to the full texts of the articles, or use them for any other lawful purpose, without asking prior permission from the publisher or the author.